Seventy tunnels in just over seven kilometres: the Gardesana between Gargnano and Riva, opened on 18 October 1931, was christened a \"meander\" by D'Annunzio. Three roads around the lakes of Lombardy and Piedmont to drive slowly, and one that is closed today.
A tour of the Italian lakes is measured in bends rather than kilometres. Four roads, on Lake Garda, on Lario (Lake Como) and on Lake Maggiore, show the lakes well as seen from behind the wheel; journey times depend on traffic and season, and one of them currently carries a major restriction.
The Gardesana Occidentale: D'Annunzio's "meander"
The Strada Statale 45 bis Gardesana Occidentale runs along the Brescia shore of Lake Garda, and its most famous stretch is the one between Gargnano and Riva del Garda. It was built between 1929 and 1931 and officially opened on 18 October 1931; the undertaking was backed by Gabriele D'Annunzio, who called it a "meander" for the alternation of dark tunnels and blue lake. The original project counted seventy tunnels, totalling 7 kilometres and 182 metres; over time some sections have been replaced or supplemented by bypasses.
Along the road there are two addresses for golfers. At Gardone Riviera, the Grand Hotel Fasano, a former imperial hunting lodge from 1888 that became a hotel and, since 1989, a national monument, names Gardagolf, Arzaga and Bogliaco as its reference courses. The Golf Bogliaco, at Toscolano Maderno, is open all year and has 18 holes, par 70, some 100 metres above the lakeshore; in the 2025-2026 price list the weekday green fee runs from 53 euros in winter to 76 in summer.
The Forra di Tremosine: the road that cannot be driven today
A famous detour from the Gardesana is the Strada della Forra, at Tremosine on Lake Garda: about 6 kilometres between Porto and Pieve, cut into the gorge of the Brasa torrent and opened in 1913. According to the national tourism portal, Winston Churchill called it "the eighth wonder of the world". The road appears in the film Quantum of Solace.
It is, however, not passable. According to Il Giorno, since 16 December 2023 barriers at the junction with the Gardesana have blocked access, after a rockfall: the same newspaper, in May 2024, spoke of 8,500 cubic metres of rock detached from the slope. In July 2025 the road was still closed, with no reopening date. Before including it in an itinerary, check its status with the Municipality of Tremosine or the Province of Brescia.
The Strada Regina on Lake Como
The SS 340 Regina links Como to the Swiss border at Valsolda over 50.3 kilometres on the western shore of the lake, and follows, albeit modified, the route of the ancient Via Regina. It passes through Cernobbio, Laglio, Brienno and Menaggio. The route is at times narrow and winding: the road is driven at low speed, and summer traffic is something to allow for.
The natural starting point is Cernobbio, home to Villa d'Este, a residence from 1568 that became a hotel in 1873. Once at Menaggio you reach the Menaggio e Cadenabbia Golf Club, founded on 10 January 1907 at the Hotel Victoria by four English gentlemen led by the banker Henry John Mylius: 18 holes, par 70, above the lake, with a library of golf books that includes volumes from 1682.
Mottarone: the Strada Borromea
Mottarone (1,492 metres) is the mountain between Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta. From the summit, on clear days, seven lakes can be seen: Orta, Maggiore, Mergozzo, Varese, Monate, Comabbio and Biandronno. From the Alpino side you drive up a private toll road, the Strada Borromea: the toll is paid at the entrance and may change from one season to the next. The name recalls that the eastern slope, from Alpino to the provincial road at Armeno, belonged to the Borromeo family. The Stresa-Alpino-Mottarone cable car is shown as closed on the Stresa tourism website, following the accident of 23 May 2021.
You can play golf on Mottarone: the Golf Club Alpino di Stresa has nine holes, par 69, designed by Peter Gannon, and hosted the first three editions of the Italian Open. Lower down, on the Alto Vergante at about 600 metres, lies the Golf des Iles Borromées: 18 holes, par 72, with views of the Simplon and four lakes. At Stresa, Villa e Palazzo Aminta lists nine affiliated clubs and a concierge who books green fees.
How to plan a driving tour of the lakes
- Narrow roads: the Regina and the Gardesana are lakeside roads, not through routes. If you have a large car, hire something compact.
- Tunnels: there are many on the Gardesana, alternating with open stretches: keep your headlights on and your sunglasses within reach.
- Weather: on Mottarone conditions change with altitude; go up in the clear hours to see the lakes.
- Tolls and closures: the Borromea has a toll; the Forra, a closure.
Frequently asked questions
Which is the most beautiful road on Lake Garda?+
The most famous is the Gardesana Occidentale, especially the stretch between Gargnano and Riva del Garda, opened in 1931 with seventy tunnels in the original project. The verdict, of course, remains subjective.
Is the Strada della Forra di Tremosine open?+
According to Il Giorno it has been closed since 16 December 2023 because of a rockfall, and in July 2025 there was no reopening date. Check with the Municipality or the Province of Brescia before setting out.
How long is the Strada Regina on Lario?+
The SS 340 Regina measures 50.3 kilometres, from Como to the Swiss border at Valsolda, on the western shore of the lake.
Is there a toll on the Mottarone road?+
From the Alpino side you drive up a private toll road, the Strada Borromea; the toll is paid at the entrance.
Can you really see seven lakes from Mottarone?+
Yes, on clear days: Orta, Maggiore, Mergozzo, Varese, Monate, Comabbio and Biandronno.
Can I combine the drive with a round of golf?+
Yes: along the roads described there are courses such as Bogliaco on Lake Garda, Menaggio on Lario and Alpino di Stresa on Mottarone.
